Camp 1 (5,700 meters)
The path that winds its way up from Camp Half, soon disappears into the dreaded boulder field below Camp 1. There will be some large boulders for us to negotiate here and cairns to mark the way. At the end of the boulder field, we will cross some slabs and then ascend a short gully, which will allow access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1, where there are four or five tent platforms perched near the ridge with a steep drop to the south.
Andy Chapman (Jagged Globe)